Penelope Chilvers Launches Clothing Inspired by Cult Footwear Designs

LONDON — Having made her name with the tasseled Spanish riding boots beloved by Kate Middleton and colorful cowboy styles popular with Texans, Penelope Chilvers is launching a clothing collection with the same rugged, bohemian aesthetic as her footwear.
Chilvers, whose namesake brand has four U.K. stores and sells through Nordstrom and independent retailers in the U.S., said in an interview the time had finally come to dress her customers from toe to head.
“I’m very close to our customer, and I’ve been making footwear for them for a very long time. I also thought about the winter and summer shoe styles that we’ve been selling successfully for many years, and what sort of clothes customers buying those styles would wear,” she said in an interview.
Last fall, Chilvers began slipping pieces of clothing into her offer, but for spring she’s done a small first collection with pieces that are “purposeful,” but still feminine, just like her boots and shoes.
They include roomy suede jackets in the same rich caramel tone as the brand’s tall, heeled boots and loafers. There are also olive and khaki jackets that can be paired with colorful velvet espadrilles or platforms, and suede gilets with shearling and colorful embroidery that nod to the brand’s popular mukluks.
On a more romantic note, there’s also a soft-edged knitted hacking jacket meant to pair with the tassel riding boots and a lineup of indigo silk bow blouses, prairie skirts and smocked tops all with bohemian flair.
Chilvers has also indulged her love of print, working colored stripes into caftans, knitted tank tops and romantic cotton, puff-sleeve, dresses. Vintage flower prints, large and small, blossom across tie-front quilted jackets and long cotton voile skirts.
A vintage clothing aficionado who keeps a big print archive, Chilvers has always loved designing, and couldn’t wait to get started on clothing.

The designer had always styled the brand’s fashion shoots, using vintage finds from Portobello Market, near to where she lives in Notting Hill, or from secondhand shops. Often, she would use her own clothes or those from her daughter’s closet, for the shoots.
Artistic expression comes naturally to Chilvers, who trained as a painter at the Byam Shaw School of Art in London. She later worked with artists, and artisans in Spain during and after her graduate studies in the country.
Her love of riding in the hills above Barcelona led her to design what would become the Long Tassel Boot, the brand’s sturdy and stylish hero, which is made with sustainably sourced Spanish leather.
Chilvers has built a small, but thriving, business on that boot, and myriad styles such as her brown suede cowboys that come with pops of bright red or turquoise and mukluks with sheepskin lining. Fair weather styles include colorful velvet espadrilles and sexy platforms as well as more demure mary janes.
As with the footwear, Chilvers is working closely with her team on the collections, drawing up mood boards and sketching her ideas straight on to paper.
“I draw freehand, and if you draw, you can imagine what something is going to look like. But, with a drawing, you can also tell people what something is supposed to look like. We’re drawing all the time in the factory — asking [the makers] to bring up a line or soften a corner,” Chilvers said.
Her favorite part is the imagination stage.
“I absolutely love the dream, you know, seeing in my mind’s eye and imagining what something’s going to look like before it does. I work from these extensive mood boards, and I’m currently working on the spring 2027 collection,” Chilvers said.

She is trying to keep production as close as possible to home, making knitwear in the U.K., and other pieces in Spain and Portugal. In a few weeks, she’s headed to India to visit a factory that will be making summer cottons.
She starting small with the clothing, making 30 pieces pieces for spring which will rise to 60 pieces in the coming seasons. Prices are in line with the footwear. The floral-print cotton voile dress, hacking jacket and belted jumpsuit are all priced at 249 pounds.
At 429 pounds, the shearling gilet is the priciest piece of clothing on the site right now.
Chilvers said she’s conscious of the brand’s carbon footprint, too. She works with biodegradable materials, where possible, and works her deadstock into the new collections. The packaging, she said, has always been plastic-free.
The company is privately funded and lean — Chilvers doesn’t work with any middlemen, and deals directly with factories. The brand is small but has grown steadily, by around 10 to 20 percent each year.
Chilvers said her aim is to continue catering to her loyal U.S., U.K. and international clients, build up the clothing offer and — finally — indulge her love of print.
“As the season progresses, we’ll get more playful and more colorful. I’m absolutely mad about print. As a footwear designer, it’s been a frustration of mine never to be able to use one print in the collection,” but now, with clothing in the picture, she’s ready to run wild.
